Vendee: From the Bridge to the Passage du Gois, a Walk at the Gateway to the Island of Noirmoutier

Through this 14 km walk in Noirmoutier (Vendée), walkers can discover the wild territories and natural wonders between the two main entrances to the island.

Often, we just pass by. For many, visiting Noirmoutier (Vendée) mainly comes down to going to the western part of the island: exploring the marshes beyond La Guérinière and l’Épine, strolling in Noirmoutier-en-l’Ile, sunbathing at the beach of the Ladies or that of the Bois de la Chaise. We rarely stop at Barbâtre, at the foot of the bridge. However, the eastern part of the island offers wild landscapes, between dunes and pine forests, and exceptional natural sites. This will guide you on an easy 14 km walk, lasting about 4 hours, on the Vendée island.

This circuit offers vast panoramas of the maritime landscapes of the two sides of the island. At the start of the walk, after having covered the nature reserve of the Sébastopol polder, you will discover the two gateways to the island, the emblematic site of the Passage du Gois and the bridge built in 1971 which spans the Goulet de Bourgneuf.
You can discover the gates of the island of Noirmoutier (Vendée) through this hiking circuit.
You can discover the gates of the island of Noirmoutier (Vendée) through this hiking circuit. | ALBAN THE POPE

From Gois to the bridge

D. From the tourist office car park, head towards Moulin de la Plaine and follow rue du Polder to the right. After 300 m, leave the Chemin de Queue-de-Vache on the right, and continue straight ahead. You reach the Sevastopol polder. Make a round trip to discover this nature reserve. On the way back, take the path to the left. You walk along the polder, and continue to the Gois road. Go left and back as far as the passage du Gois.

The island of Noirmoutier has been continuously connected to land thanks to its bridge since 1971.
The island of Noirmoutier has been continuously connected to land thanks to its bridge since 1971. | FRANCK DUBRAY 

1. On the way back, take the path on the left, you pass the Pointe de la Casie. Continue closer to the coast. Continue on the green lane which takes you near a roundabout. Follow the track to cross the road. Continue left parallel to the road, towards the southern tip of the island.

By the wooded dune

2. Before going up on the bridge, leave the cycle path, cross the clearing on the right towards the pine forest and take the path on the left. At the end, facing the bridge, take the path to the right, along the fences. Then continue along the edge of the woods behind the dune. Follow the marked coastal path. Further on, you cross a street, continue opposite.

Another way to get to the island, the Gois is only accessible at low tide.
Another way to get to the island, the Gois is only accessible at low tide. | FRANCK DUBRAY 

3. Turn left and continue right across the dune until you reach Rue de la Croix-Rouge. Take it to the right. You go down the street and pass two stop signs, continue straight. At an old garage on the right, turn right, and follow the Route du Gois to the roundabout. Join the parking lot of the tourist office on the left.

To find out more: A Dutchman in Vendée

The name Jacobsen comes up several times on the island of Noirmoutier. Cornil Guislain Jacobsen, a Dunkirk shipowner of Dutch origin, settled on the island in the 18th century  . He actively participated in the draining of the marshes, by building a 6 km dyke, then in their exploitation. He will very quickly become one of the main merchants of Noirmoutier salt, which he exports all over the world.

The Sébastopol “polder”, in Noirmoutier.
The Sébastopol “polder”, in Noirmoutier. Taken from a Dutch name which means “diked land”, it is an expanse of agricultural land reclaimed from the sea thanks to dykes. | © ALAIN LE BORGNE

He established himself as one of the most important local notables, and built the Jacobsen hotel, which has now become a maritime heritage centre. One of his sons, Jean Corneille, will become mayor and deputy of the island. The grandson Auguste, a merchant like his grandfather, will also be the mayor of Noirmoutier. If in the 19th century the Jacobsen family had to face financial problems, it will nonetheless have had a lasting impact on the history of the island.

Where does the Passage du Gois come from?

The word “gois” comes from the patois “goiser”, which means to walk while wetting the hooves. The story of this passage, which has become almost mythical, continues to arouse curiosity. “The” discovery of this passage between the island and the mainland dates back to the middle of the 9th century, when prisoners on the island, Norman invaders, spotted this corridor to reach the mainland at low tide.

At the Passage du Gois, there are nine beacons, also called "parrot masts", to offer refuge to walkers surprised by the tide along this submersible road.
At the Passage du Gois, there are nine beacons, also called “parrot masts”, to offer refuge to walkers surprised by the tide along this submersible road. | © ALAIN LE BORGNE

It was only in the 18th century that this crossing became widespread and that the first beacons marked out the passage. The first regular passage by a horse-drawn carriage is reported from 1840. The first stoning in 1868 was consolidated in 1924 and the current paving was carried out between 1935 and 1939. Milestones were planted every 100 m and three beacons shelters can accommodate the unwary trapped by the tide which can cover the Gois by nearly 4 m.

Convenient

Access: after the Noirmoutier bridge, follow the secondary road to the second roundabout. Park on the right in the Barbâtre Tourist Office car park. Departing from Nantes TGV station, a coach service provides service to the island of Noirmoutier.

To visit: The Jacobsen Hotel, maritime heritage centre, tel. : 02 51 68 48 89.

The castle museum, tel. : 02 51 39 10 42.

The Museum of Island Traditions in La Guérinière, tel. : 02 51 39 41 39.

Guided tours of the salt marshes in July and August.

To do: the tourist office offers various guided outings to discover the island’s heritage and natural riches.

Information: Noirmoutier Island Tourist Office, tel. : 02 51 39 80 71, www.ile-noirmoutier.com